Yosemite – Globitrotter

Cathedral Peak

One of our goals in Tuolumne was to climb the Cathedral Peak. It is rated a 5.6 which should be an easy climb for us. The theoretical number of pitches were 5-6.

Cathedral Peak as we are approaching. The climb is up the left ridge.

We got up before the sun and started the approach at dawn. It took us almost 1.5 hours to reach the base of the climb. It took us a few minutes to gear up and have a sip of water. The mosquitos were bad so we did not linger at the base.

I started leading the first pitch which featured a hand crack custom made for my size of hand. Andy did not like it as much. Second pitch Andy lead. Third pitch I ended up choosing the wrong way and made a belay station before I was supposed to due to the rope drag being heavy and the crack much more difficult than I thought. Andy had to come to the rescue. After this point we did shorter pitches than was described in the topo and ended up with 8 pitches instead of 5 or 6. It was a great climb that had some great spots like the hand crack, a chimney and some airy bits close to and on the peak.

Andy having a rest at one belay station.

Me in the chimney.

As always it took us a bit longer than it says in the guide books but we were the first ones on the cliff and the first ones on the top. There were a number of people coming up after us but we only saw them from above and did not actually meet anyone during our climb. We were surprised because it had said that this route is always full of people.

Andy on the peak.

It was a great feeling to sit on the top of Cathedral Peak. There is not a lot of space up there and we were happy we were the only ones. The view was spectacular and is always so much better if you actually made an effort to get there.

Me on one of the rocks forming the peak.

The view from the peak. If you look closely on the image you can see a guy on the top of the spire, the Eichhorn.

The down climb was described as a 4^th class (should be easy) and probably was if you found the exact right way. We found a tree and ended up rappelling down to save some time and energy. Once back at the Meadow we went to the store, bought some soda and chips and had a rest at the creek before we jumped in it. The creek is not colder than average summer water temperature in Sweden so it is ok.

Hiking back after a great climb.

Tuolumne Meadows

In total we spent almost 2 weeks in Tuolumne Meadows. We climbed, hiked and had a few lazy days as well. After our retreat in Mammoth Lakes we mainly went back for some climbing but did one day hike as well.

We climbed Tenaya Peak, Cathedral Peak, Pothole Dome, Dozier Dome and Stately Pleasure Dome. The one hike we did was on a rest day from climbing and took us to the top of Clouds Rest which has a spectacular view of Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne (image below).

Tenaya Peak was the first peak we climbed and a good exercise for us. Since we are still quite new to traditional climbing where you have to place your own gear this long climb was excellent. It was easy, only grade 5.5, and 14 pitches. It gave us both the training we needed for building belays and placing protection. It did take us a while to reach the top because of its length but worth it in the end. Many solo climb this peak or simul climb (both people are climbing at the same time and if one falls it could be a long fall) it. We were tempted to try it again and simul climb since we have never tried that. It was easy enough for us both to feel very safe. But we decided we wanted to move on instead. Next time…

Us on the top of Tenaya Peak

We also took a rest day after doing three peaks in three days. We started the day with pancakes at the creek, had lunch on Lembert Dome and celebrated 4^th of July with left over glögg (!?).

Luxury breakfast on a lazy day

Lunch view from Lembert Dome

4th of July glögg

Yosemite Valley – good and bad

We had both been looking forward to going to Yosemite. I had been there before about 10 years ago and could remember the guided climb we did in Tuolumne and the long and strenuous hike up Half Dome. All were good memories which had made me want to go back for a long time.

As we drove into the Yosemite Valley a Thursday afternoon it was packed with tourists, bicycles and more noticeably cars with drivers who were looking more at the views than the road. There are a number of camp sites in the Valley which were all fully booked since months. If you travel like we do, not reserving anything in advance, you can basically forget about Yosemite Valley. Unless you want to spend half of every day checking the waiting lists for last minute cancellations. If you do get a spot you have it for one night and the next day you have to do the same thing again. Hence you will never have time to actually do anything during the day because you have to be at the campground reservation office early afternoon.

Disappointed we ended up at a campground almost an hour away towards Tuolumne Meadows. We decided anyway to go back the next day to the Valley, do one hike, look at some sights and then head on to Tuolumne for hiking and climbing.

We had also been hoping to be able to hike the Half Dome but gave that up pretty quickly as well. To get a last minute permit for that you have to call (and you can guess how well cell phones work in the National Park) and get on a waiting list two days in advance of the day you actually want to do the hike. There is then a lottery and if you are lucky you get a permit. Otherwise, better luck next time. But since camping was so difficult to find and we want to get a very early start for that hike we decided to put our energy on other things instead. There are other peaks to climb and hikes to do. We can always come back some other time when we are willing to plan ahead. This kind of thing really throws me off. One peak is not important enough to go through that much trouble. We had just come from Mt Whitney where we had to go through a similar thing and were not ready to do it again.

The day we did spend in the valley we hiked up to Yosemite Point which is just passed the Upper Yosemite Falls. As we started in the morning there were not too many people on the trail but it filled up later in the day as we were heading down again. It was quite interesting to see the variety of clothing and equipment for the hikers on this trail. The shoes people were wearing was anything from alpine mountaineering boots to hiking shoes, sneakers, toe shoes and leather sneakers (definitely not made for hiking).

Yosemite Falls from the valley floor.

Just above Yosemite Falls.

We thought is was a nice half day hike with pretty views from the top, well worth the effort. A bit too crowded for our taste but that is what you get here. It is really a spectacular valley and I understand why so many come here. It is a brilliant place if you want to see a lot in a small area. The rock faces and water falls are very dramatic and situated in the best possible way.

View of the valley and Half Dome from Yosemite Point.

Tuolumne back country hike

In Yosemite National Park we wanted to do a multiday hike. We decided to start it at Tuolumne Meadows. The exact route you can find below. We planned two nights and three hiking days. The first plan was to hike not more than 12 miles or 19.5 km per day. Since we ended up adjusting our route on the way it became 23.6 km the first day, 20.4 km the second and 11 km the third. The reason for the third day being so short was that where we were planning to camp the second night turned out to be mosquito hell. So we kept going until we found a place that was a bit better.

The first day we passed Cathedral Peak and Lakes. It started off uphill, a bit more than we had expected but still ok. Instead of going to the campground at Sunrise we turned off to the east and into the next valley. We hiked along a creek until we found a great place for our first camp.

Before reaching the first camp we filled up our water bottles by the creek. As we were doing this Andy made a joke that now when we were not watching our backpacks, which were 15 m away, a bear would come and get our snacks. Good point I thought, since we had been warned about just this. The bears know our behavior and chooses their moment of attack when we are not paying attention to our stuff. So I went to bring our backpacks closer while Andy was filtering the water. As I brought the second backpack I suddenly saw a bear on the other side of the creek. I think he saw me at the same time I saw him. It was a cute brown little guy, I thought afterwards. My first reaction was to freak out and starting clapping my hands. The poor guy got scared and ran off immediately. Maybe I could have taken a photo or two before scaring him off but I have never seen a wild bear that closely before and there was a bridge just next to us that he could easily cross. So my only photo of our bear sighting is a brown little dot in the middle of the bush. I won’t even bother to show it.

The second day we came by Merced Lake and then headed up towards Vogelsang. After the ranger station at Merced Lake it was steep uphill and got very hot. The wind had been strong ever since we entered the park but now when we wanted it, it was of course gone. This day was probably the most beautiful day featuring granite domes, creeks, water falls and spectacular views of the high Sierras. It was also the hardest one with more than 900 m elevation gain. As we came close to Vogelsang we turned off to the west and wanted to camp a few miles before the Toulumne Pass. After that it should start going downhill towards the Meadows again. Due to about a million mosquitos we ended up camping just at the Pass where it was a bit more reasonable.

The third day was an easy cruise down to Tuolumne again. Basically only downhill and not very steep. But since the first long day had given me some blisters on my feet it was still a pain. (Good thing you never remember these things very clearly afterwards…) I was happy to see the parking lot again where a cold lemon soda and some chips were waiting for us.

More images:

Tuolumne hike

Now, after 5 days of hiking and climbing without a shower, we were worth some luxury time at a hotel. 🙂