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Phoenix – a first impression

Believe it or not, Phoenix is the sixth largest city (population) in the USA. It does look big as you fly in to Sky Harbor which is located more or less in the center of the city and it takes about an hour to drive from one side to the other on the freeway with speed limit 65 miles/h (about 105 km/h). So there is no doubt about it, this is a big city. The city fills up an entire valley which is surrounded by mountains, the Phoenix Metro Area is often called The Valley. There is a network of freeways that ensures easy travel from one area to another and in between the freeways there are major roads with three lanes in each direction. What you learn though is to take the freeway as far as you can since the traffic lights are frequent on the major roads and can slow down you trip considerably.

The very city center has some high rise buildings but otherwise it is quite flat and spread out.

Historic Phoenix downtown.

One thing that surprises me is that there are many empty lots even in the very city center. I guess there is so much land to build on that it is not necessary to build everything in the same place and since everyone is driving everywhere there has been no need to.

This image is taken from Dobbins Lookout on South Mountain. If you click on the image you will see downtown on the left and the airport to the right.
Phoenix seems to have strict rules as to how buildings are allowed to be built. More or less all buildings and houses are beige and flat. Not many buildings have more than two or three stories. The result of this is that it looks the same everywhere all over the city. You can find yourself anywhere and if you drive 5-10 min in either direction you will find a place that looks almost the same. You will find the same stores and the same restaurants. Almost all restaurants here are part of a chain. So you don’t really have to leave your neighborhood because there is nothing new to find on the other side of the fence.

Typical strip mall. You have to drive only a couple of streets to find the next one.
 This is what most residential areas look like.
The neighborhoods are often surrounded by walls and the name of the place are written as you drive into the street. The fancy places are also gated.

 

It seems also that no one does leave their neighborhood very often. There is no city center that is a natural place for people to go, like we (at least Europeans) are used to. Downtown Phoenix does have some tall buildings, museums, shops and restaurants. But people does not seem to go here to hang out. This part of town always feels empty, almost abandoned. Not even after a big baseball game at Chase Field, which is situated in the very center of the city and takes almost 50 000 spectators, do you find more people walking around. The way to do it here is to take your car, go to the place you want to visit, if a museum, restaurant or shop, park as close as you can and when satisfied with your visit go directly with your car to the next place or home.
The only places that seem to attract the masses are the shopping malls. I guess the weather can be partly to blame for this because in the summer you do not want to wander around outdoors. You need to find a place that is air conditioned. But the really hot months are not that many, about as many as the very cold ones in Sweden. The rest of the year is very comfortable to be outside during the day.
One part of town that does have potential is downtown Scottsdale. Here you will find many restaurants and shops. Unfortunately they are mostly souvenir shops or art galleries. So if you are not in the market for presents or particularly interested in art you will still end up at the Scottsdale Fashion Center, the huge mall just a few block away. Also in downtown Scottsdale many of the restaurants are chain restaurants that you will find all over town.
I miss just going downtown, walking around a bit, maybe pop into my favorite shop, have a coffee with friends and just enjoy the atmosphere. The atmosphere in Phoenix though is missing, I am sorry to say. Just the other day though we learned more about Phoenix after a visit to the Phoenix Art Museum. I am now much more intrigued and it all seems to make more sense. But this deserves a separate post. Stay tuned.

2011

This year I believe all posts are about the USA. This is no wonder since we have lived this year in Phoenix. Last year we were not living together and spent a lot of time travelling just to see each other. This year we have been together and in a completly different environment than we are used to, the desert. 
It has been interesting. We have experienced higher temperatures than ever before and for the first time I have chosen to have dinner indoors because it is too hot outside. I have realized that too hot weather is just as limiting as too cold weather. Lucky for us we got to escape during August to find some cooler air in the Colorado Rockies and now during the winter it is much more comfortable.
Although we live in Phoenix I have actually not written anything about the city. It is time that changed. We will stay here until end of March so I still have some time to make up for lost Phoenix posts.
First though we will enjoy Christmas. The afternoon of Christmas Eve was spent by the pool with freshly baked “mjuk pepparkaka” and lots of glögg (Swedish mulled wine). The sun was warm in the afternoon but when it goes down the temperature here is not much higher than in Stockholm. 
In the evening we had reservations at the Melting Pot which is a Fondue restaurant. Fondue is a Christmas tradition for both our families which made it the perfect choice. The American Fondue is somewhat different from what we are used to. There were no sides like potatoes, rice or chips (weird Swiss side… 🙂 ), the mix of meats was larger and there were more vegetables to dip. Although I missed the sides a bit it was a good call because we would never had made it through the meats if we had sides to eat while waiting for the meat to be cooked. We still got way too full since the Christmas dinner special was four courses featuring cheese fondue, salad, meat fondue and chocolate fondue… It is now noon the day after and I still don’t feel like eating anything. But that how it is supposed to be on Christmas, or?

Favourite spots

Usually my favourite spot anywhere is an elevated point where I can get a good view. In Stockholm it is the top of Västerbron, a bridge where you have a great view of the city center and the surrounding waters. This is unfortunately a very busy place with lots of traffic so I don’t linger there for very long but I do make sure that passing this bridge is part of walks and runs in the area. As it happens, in Phoenix, one of my favourite spots is similar.
Phoenix is a very big and flat city. Usually you do not see anything further than the next block. As I drive to work I have to drive over the I-10 along Chandler Blwd where the bridge is just a few meters higher than the surrounding area. But because the city is so flat you can see all the way to Superstition Mountains at the other end of town at this place. The sunrise and sunset are usually very nice from here and you can easily see sandstorms rolling in from the south. 

Luckily there are two traffic lights on the bridge itself and in this case I do not mind that these particular ones are always red when I come along.

Visiting parents

In September my parents came over from Sweden to visit us in Arizona. The first few days we showed them around the area, looked at the views from Dobbins Lookout on South Mountain, did some shopping at the Chandler Mall, had drinks at the Hyatt in downtown Phoenix and drove the Apache Trail.

Apache Trail

Goldfield Ghost town along the Apache Trail 

As usual the weather was sunny and a bit warmer than we had expected at this time of year. It has been around 40 degrees Celsius in Phoenix during this time. My parents had not ever experienced that kind of heat which required some getting used to.


After the sight seeing in the Phoenix area we did a 5 day tour featuring Prescott / Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, Las Vegas, Hoover Dam and Lake Havasu. It was a fair way to go and we had to spend quite a lot of time in the car. But it was a nice trip with a good mix of things to do. We did some hiking, shopping and sight seeing.

Grand Canyon
At the Narrows in Zion National park

My parents at Luxor 

The Elvis fan

When we got back to Phoenix we had a rest day where we slept in and just went shopping in Scottsdale. In the evening we had a barbecue at the pool.

Tombstone down town

The last outing was a day trip down to Tombstone where we walked around the historic little down town, ate at one of the old saloons and watched the Shoot out show at OK Corral, featuring Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday.

At Crystal Palace where we had lunch
Thanks for visiting. We had a great time!

Worn out

This poor pair of shoes have been with me since 2008. I bought them before a hiking holiday in Austria in August 2008. They have been hiking the Austrian Alps, Swiss Alps, Australian Alps, Red Center, Grampians, Kangaroo Island and other places in Australia, Sörmlandsleden in Sweden, Bukhansan in South Korea, desert hikes in Arizona and Utah, a number of 14ers in Colorado and probably a few more places I can not remember. They have even climbed a grade 5 at a couple of occasions.


They have been great and I am very sad to have worn them out. But I think it is now time to go look for a new pair.