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Canberra – hmm

I passed by Canberra on my way from Thredbo to Sydney without any expectations really and ended up mostly fascinated. There is a weird feeling about the place. Although there are people around, it is quiet and somehow unpersonal. I got a strange Metropolis (you know, Fritz Lang silent movie) feeling… I do not know if it was how the city is custombuilt for workers (it was designed by an American architect not even 100 years ago), the people who all seemed to be programmed to be going somewhere special or the cool Art Deco architecture of the Hyatt Hotel. I guess it was the combination.

It is like a big factory where it is decided how people should move and behave. Like everyone is here for a purpose, not just living here.

It is also odd how the city is small enough to walk around but not made for walking. Many streets does not have sidewalks, footpaths sometimes just stop and when you reach a crossroads it is not always possible to cross it. Again I get the feeling that somebody is trying to make you move in a certain pattern. I guess usually cities are build around people while here it was the other way around, the people was put in a city.

When I arrived I went for a walk to find lunch and have a look at the Parliament and other sights. The guy at the hostel had suggested Kingston or Manuka for lunch where there are many cafees and restaurants. Sure enough I found a nice place called “All things chocolate”. No, it is not what you think, it was actually the soup of the day posted outside that caught my attention. But after reading their menu and the raving articles on the wall I could not leave without a hot chocolate with chai flavour. Yummy!

The new Parliament.

After coming back to the hostel which was cituated in the centre of Canberra, I decide to go and check it out. I arrived 5.35 pm just to find that everything was closed! This is the capital city, is it not? The only thing I could see was people in suits walking focused down the street.

I decided to go to the movies to kill time. When I came out after 9 pm I could actually feel a different atmosphere. Finally, I thought, this is when things are happening. It turned out that the cafees all closed at 10 pm… But thankfully this is a big city and it was possible to find food later at night. I am sure you need some time to find where to go and figure the place out and that is what I do not have right now.

I was only staying one night but I could not leave until I had seen the city during business hours. This was just too interesting. So the next morning I went out to see the difference. The shopping centres were now busy so it seems that also here shopping is an important activity. Still though the streets were quite empty and it was fairly quiet.

Canberra is really a nice city, beautifully set at the foot of the mountains with a nice lake and lots of parks. The roads are very wide, it is very easy to get around and even in rush hour there is no traffic. The people are very friendly and helpful. I did like Canberra, maybe because it was interesting and made me curious. During my stay in Australia I have met a few people from the capital and after visiting the place it somehow makes sence.

Dear Chris

Dear Chris,

When I finished the Overland Track I was full of energy but when arriving in Hobart I relaxed and took the time to do nothing. It was wonderful after 4 weeks of travelling without any real stops. I loved having long breakfasts at the cafe around the corner from your house. It was great just wandering around town during the day, visit you at work and helping you with your (yes, it was boring…) paper work. I have never seen a jeweller work before. You make the most beautiful things and I can see how it can be very rewarding. Your customers are always happy! I do understand that you really love what you do. (http://www.metalurges.com.au/)

Thank you for meeting me in Lake St Clair and taking me in for a few days. I enjoyed every moment of it, the view from Mt Wellington, the pancakes, your delicious soup and your Skyline. Do thank your Dad for lunch and showing me around his winery. I have some hope for Chardonnay now. And thank your friends for extending their invitation to include me. I loved the lobster pizza. Jaaa….

I hope we will meet again soon.

Love

Angela

Late afternoon at St Clair.

More hiking

This trip was from the beginning going to be a diving trip but has so far been mostly focused on hiking. (I am planning to do about 50 dives so that is still to come.) Honestly I was not really aware of the hiking available in Australia. I did buy a Lonely Planet called Walking in Australia before I left Sweden but I did not read it until I arrived here. The result has been that I have gotten stuck in places like Bright and Thredbo, ski resorts which offer lots of brilliant hiking.

Because I did not bring any camping gear I can only see a small part of the National Parks and makes me realise that I have to come back to do more camping.

I had some bad luck with the weather in Bright. One day a storm prevented me from hiking and when the forecast promised me good weather on Mt Bogong, they were just joking… Mt Bogong is the highest peak in the Victorian Alps (1962 m, I think) and a challenge with its 1400 m elevation change in 8.5 km. In a few hours I was at the top and it was freezing… It was still frosty on the ground and a very cold wind was blowing. I managed to stay at the ridge for about an hour before it got too cold. It was partly cloudy and I had some good views but not the 360 degrees I was hoping for. The hike was beautiful though, especially when you reached the ridge above the tree line. On a nice summer day it would have been lovely to spend a day up there.

Mt Bogong.

On Mt Feathertop I was more lucky. I hiked the Razorback, a 10 km long ridge walk, to the top. When I started it was overcast but I could see blue skies at the horizon and I did have good views. About 1 hour before I reached the top clouds came rolling in and kept coming. It was not too cold on the top so I stayed there, had my lunch and hoped that the weather would get better. Just as I decided to leave the sun came out and when I turned around it was clear. I had the most fantastic view towards the Mt Buffalo Plateau.

The Razorback and Mt Feathertop.

On Mt Buffalo plateau I found my own little spot on Mt Dunn. This is one of the granite peaks on the plateau but obviously not the most visited. I got about one hour of solitude on the peak, one of those moments you feel like you are the only person in the world. Lovely! The highest peak on the plateau, the Horn, was full of people but a really good sunset spot. It had the most amazing colours.

Enjoying Mt Dunn.

On the way to Mt Dunn.

Sunset on the Horn.

In Thredbo, the main target was to climb Mt Kosciuszko, the highest mountain in Australia. Since Thredbo is a ski resort you can take the ski lift to almost 2000 m and then stroll up to the top at 2228 m. It is basically a highway to the top and it is very crowded because it is so accessable. The hike itself is not as rewarding as Mt Bogong but the views are spectacular from the top. Tomorrow I am heading up to the same area to climb a few more peaks.

On Mt Kosciuszko.

The Grampians

After reading about and seeing pictures from the Grampians I included Halls Gap to my travel itinerary. The mountains in the Grampians are not very high, below 1000 m, but they are spectacular. There is a lot of exposed rock (my favourite) and rock hoping or easy climbing is often required to reach the peaks. The highest mountain , Mt William, was actually the least spectacular in the area because there was a paved road all the way to the top which was littered by masts and a humming transformer. But the views and the sunrise from the top still made it worth while to go there. Sunrise on Mt William.

Mt Difficult, in the centre of the park, was very good. It took about 2 hours to reach the top and that was obviously enough to loose the crowds. Scott, an english guy who I met at the hostel, and I were the only ones there except for the wallaby which escaped as soon as we arrived.

View from Mt Difficult.

Made it!

My favourite though is Mt Stapylton, a not very famous peak in the northern part of the park. It was not very high in comparison but the rocky peak and the climbing required to get there was just the best.

Taking it easy on Mt Stapylton.

During my stay in the Grampians the weather was just perfect for hiking. It was around 22 degrees and sunshine. Can it be better?

Heavenly hiking

One of the highlights on this trip was the Overland Track, a 6 day hike on Tasmania. I have dreamt about hiking here for a long time and when I realised it was still hiking season I did not hesitate. The Overland Track is supposed to be one of the best in the world. Of course I had to see if this was true…
23 March I started the track with a tour company called Wilderness Expeditions. We were 6 tourists and 2 guides. Since I am travelling alone and not carrying any hiking gear I had to join a tour that would provide everything I needed. We carried all gear ourselves except food which the guides, poor guys, did. The gear was exceptional, Hilleberg tents and Marmot and North Face clothing.
Before we started I thought it was going to be harder. I am not used to carrying a lot, I usually go for one day or two day hikes were it is possible to buy a meal by the end of the day. My backpack weighed about 12 kg and honestly it was no problem at all. We hiked 3-5 hours a day and it felt like a luxury hike especially since the guides insisted on doing all the cooking… The first few days it was difficult to just hang around watching someone cook your food but it was surprisingly easy to get used to. 🙂
Tasmania is not known for its good weather and I believe we were very lucky. We only had rain one day and some showers for two days but the rest of the time was fine. Temperatures were ranging from 5 degrees at night to about 20 when the sun came out. In the evening my hands and feet got a little cold but otherwise the gear kept me warm and cozy.
The scenery varied from great views of the vast country to lakes and rain forest. It was absolutely beautiful at all times and I was walking with a smile on my face for 6 days.
Of course can not any picture make the place justice and it is terribly difficult to choose a few pictures that would describe the whole track.

At Marions lookout. Cradle Mountain in the background.

One of the many lakes we passed.

Sunset at New Pelion Hut.

Never stop travel

The view was painfully beautiful at Cape Borda lookout on Kangaroo Island. The dramatic cliffs and the waves against the rocks in contrast with the soft afternoon sunlight. We saw dolphins playing in the waters further out to sea and the sea lions swimming closer to the rocks just below us.

I was talking to Marilyn, a lady double my age, who happened to take a left turn when she was supposed to take a right. She ended up at Kangaroo Island and did not know when she was going back home. She usually slept in her car but today she had treated herself to one of the cottages just by the light house. This was not the first time she was travelling like this and certainly not the last.

You just never know where life will take you. If you let it.

Marilyn. My hero.